A classic Moroccan Winter Swell traveled all the way throughout the Atlantic to hit the reshaped Sandbank producing an everlasting right-hander. Showing me the reason why this place is famous in the whole world under the name of the Magic Bay. It struck me when I see a Guy taking of, trimming into the Highline with such a grace that I stop paddling and watch him surf. You can tell that he knows the Wave, placing his turns perfectly and keeping the rhythm trough out to the whole wave using the length of his 7.0 Fish. Curious what his story is, I catch up with him on the catwalk back to the point. Omer Floyd, a child of French parents, grew up in Dar Bouzzha splitting his time between France and a surf shack in Imsouane.
Omers head is popping out of the three-room surf shack he is renting out and looks at me with a smile. Just started to make some crépé, you want one? he’s asking me. I definitely want one. Developing a sweet tooth in Morocco, I usually never say no to the sweet stuff. Sitting on the couch, having crépé and coffee. Trying to sense why I feel comfortable straight away while looking through the apartment. There is octopus’s cooking on a stove, several books laying around, all kinds of boards leaning against the wall, and fishing tools. Think it’s the Minimalist Approach, there is no unnecessary stuff standing around, everything in this apartment is in use. Preparing the fish he cached yesterday night for lunch, we talk about his garden and how he tries to be self-sustainable. You can clearly recognize that Omer is influenced by nature through his whole life, being a surfer and growing up in Morocco with his harsh heat, water problems, and endless deserts. It shapes a human soul to be a humble one. Lighting up the Fireplace in the Garden, Omer tells me about a point break hidden behind dunes and trees, that is not easy to find and hard to catch perfectly. Only 4x4 or walking access but an unbelievable right-hander, located in a national park. There is an instruction, to score it right. Omer was kind enough to share the guidelines. First, check Windy and Magicseaweed. They should show the complete opposite. 2.2 south slide west angle with 18s moderate south wind and 0.5 north with slide east on 10 sec heavy north wind. On your drive there the wind blows and turns. It looks like onshore and there is sand flying in the wind. Take the curvy beach road, not the highway, bus drivers are nuts and you gonna get scared in your little Dacia. There you will meet, and Oracle; the oracle of Takaouch; first it will look like a Fata Morgana through the vibrating horizon but as it comes closer you recognize it’s alive. The Oracle of Takaouch, an old camel, gained wisdom by observing the ocean, the wind, and land. It knows the area and will tell you how to find the spot, which section will work the best. Of course, all pieces of information are encrypted in a quest, a quest that you have to solve. It's a smart old Camel, it saw the abysm of humankind, his triumphal procession, his believes, and lies. The Downfall of old Nations and the upcoming of our modern Society. Stay sharp, it is trying to trick you, confronting you with our roots, with our greed, and our ability to imagine. Good Fortune, you have I hope. It is worth it.
It’s not the pure act of surfing alone that makes it addictive, it's the force that acts on you. The sheer power of the Ocean. The Thrill being able to read an environment that is alien to humankind. There is no Horizon. Mountains are breaking on the outer reef, white water reorganizes itself only to break at the Point then. The Ocean is alive, strong offshore bulges the lip even higher and the surging breaking wave that Omer paddling for is bristling with power. Omer adjusts his takeoff to the speed of the wave, glides down the face, leans into a bottom turn, walking to the nose to position his old single fin in the stomach of the wave only to get spit out seconds later, while the setting sun surrounded by a layer of sand ( which looks like the weather project from Olafur Eliasson) is shining through the lip. It doesn’t seem like a fight against nature. It's a Dance. Omer reacts to the wave, reacting to signals and guidance that the wave offers. A skill that requires endless amounts of Hours in the water. It requires adaption, once an important tool of our species. Then we invented spinning jenny, domestication of every life form, and everlasting growth. We placed ourselves on a podium where we did not belong. But anyway, back to the wave. A right-hander with a barrel section that breaks in front of a rock and a playful inside. It is not only the wave that makes that place so beautiful. It's the rawness, the Energy. Everything seems untouched and preserved from Humankind, somehow protected. It feels like all these people who are passing by from all over the World to surf here, exactly only do that. They just pass by. Leaving no trace behind. The vegetation got rid of the useless. It slows down your mind to a natural pace, you are able to breathe here understand that you don’t understand and you probably never will but that’s ok. Able to think like a part of the Eco-System we call planet earth. I know surfing is just a passion, but it affects your way of thinking. You learn how to control and understand your instinct. How to move through a situation by just being there, at the moment. You learn how to stand for your decisions because there is nobody to help you out of the mess you got yourself into. You get to know your boundaries. You get to know your place in the circle. It’s the balance between everything. Humankind somehow lost that balance, looking down from the top of the food chain treating other species as subjects for our progress. Consuming our way to a richer world. It seems like two realities. An imagined reality seems endless and existing one isn’t, imagined reality seems larger than us, a way of thinking that suits our lust to make something greater than we are or if you think about it in a negative way suits our greed. Exponential growth is an imagined reality that doesn’t suit the reality of our nature. If you follow Darwins Theorie, a species only survives, if it correctly concludes from different situations. Only if this is the case, the species can reproduce and develop in its DNA. If you look at the last century with its developmental leaps, only 30 years from Nils Bohr to the Manhattan Project, I am no longer sure that we have not used up our judgment, thinking ability and a little bit of luck. I’m not talking about stopping technology improvement, I’m talking about realizing that a lifespan on this earth is not a really long time, every CEO knows that growing too fast might be even worse than not growing at all. Like a Rodeo, we can guess what the horse is doing but we are not completely sure. We can cross the Ocean, we can use the oceans for energy and as a food source. But we don’t understand what impact it has on us, how we rely on it. For a species, where only 560 people saw the World from outer space, we are acting quite boldly and in a loud manner. For a species that doesn’t know where it comes from and what its purpose is, we are acting a bit too confident. We are not in business to save the World, we don’t even understand half of it. We are trying to save our standard of living; standard of living doesn’t mean driving a Benz and eating Lobster every day, it means living in Peace. Understanding means boundaries. But there is a gradual shift towards accepting those boundaries. I know our economic system seems like the solution for everything. Work hard, play hard, or some bullshit. But it only works in our reality, sometimes not even. We know it is not rational and a utopia, but we are too fat, too lazy, and too slow. Maybe you want to research the downfall of the Roman Empire.